A little more work on my fat nurgleblaster lady. She was my spare putty project today- you know, each time a sculpt goes in my mini oven to bake I dick around with the leftover putty on something so its not wasted.
So today I made a pleasant discovery in the form of a fifty-fifty mix of Aves putty and Procreate. The general vibe I got off the hinterwebby is that Aves is too coarse for fine detail work on minis, but it's cheap and great for terrain.
I found that to be true, and set my big tubs aside for that purpose.
Yet I decided to mix it with procreate today for an armature and see what happened.
The resulting apoxie/procreate (propoxie? Aproxie? Apecreate?) is really firm, feathers in well, is sticky to begin with so adheres well to previous layered and sets pleasingly rigid- has a few hours working time and is neutral grey.
Once set, it scrapes well and can be smoothed with sandpaper.
This means fingerprints are of no concern and I found I could work quickly and more roughly massing in forms with little concern for surface memory and less understructure. The coarseness of the apoxie was cancelled out.
It was really surprisingly good to use, far superior than other mixes I have used. Give it a go sometime.
The second picture shows a couple of sculpts using the mix.
I use a mix of PC and milliput for all my armatures, I'd imagine that it's fairly similar (having never used Aves). It's nice but I still find it a bit rubbery when curing (as is PC IMO). Still, makes for a good understructure to work on with all the advantages you list.ReplyDelete
Me too- but this is nicer imho. It's waxier, firmer and I find the milli-pro mix phases a bit- kinda like the two putties properties change out of synch... you know that stringy tearing effect you get about thirty minutes in that goes away closer to the hour? Hard to explain- but yep, worth picking up a small test tub to try it out sometime.ReplyDelete
What about Aves and Green stuff? I know you recommend GS and Magic Sculpt in your sculpt-along post, and I've heard Aves and MS are similar... does the mix work the same?ReplyDelete
I did another test today, hight proportion of milliput it PC. Great, quick roughing out smooths really nice etc but I had to wait around 2hrs before I could work detail to any degree that I was happy with.ReplyDelete
I'll stick with Uro! :)
MS is smoother, finer and kinda fluffier- absolutely brilliant for mixing into Greenstuff and Procreate!ReplyDelete
Hell, try everything. I am mixing industrial talk into greenstuff now to kill the stickiness and see if it loosens the memory. (see if it explodes in vulcanising- which I doubt.)
Talc into milliput is reputedly very good. Still need to try that one!ReplyDelete
Love the upper torso on the nurgle "lass", but I think she could benefit from a softer lower half - a tattered skirt and bare feet perhaps?ReplyDelete
Sweet! Let us know how the Talc experiments go, I'm very interested. I have a lot of problems with smoothing and feathering.ReplyDelete
Then try adding supersculpey it fixes the smoothing and feathering . No more than one third though, it makes the finished model rubberier unless you heat it under a lamp. It vulcanised fine too.ReplyDelete
Talc seems to work to a degree with .gs, but i am very pleased with procreate apoxie mix now.
I am getting a barrier cream called artguard from Windsor and newton to protect my hands from the resins